The good old days.
Just off a lonely road from California’s Interstate 5 exists a historic hot springs resort I’ve been wanting to visit. Built in the early 1900’s, Mercey Hot Springs is located in the Little Panoche Valley of far northwestern Fresno County between Firebaugh and Paicines. Where? I know, who the heck stops anywhere off the I-5, considered by many to be the bleakest part of California. But, if you hop on the J1 and head west for 13 miles towards the Diablo Mountain Range, you will find a relaxing and rustic hot springs resort retaining it’s old fashioned charm while progressively mixing it up with modern and environmentally sustainable practices.
Powered by the sun, the wind, and vegetable oil.
Sustainability is the name of the game out here, because no public utilities were ever brought into this part of California. Other than paving the old stagecoach route which ran to the New Idria Mine, this area of California has virtually remained untouched for 150 years. No telephone lines, no electrical poles, no mail service. Being totally off the grid, Mercey Hot Springs understands sustainability well - it basically doesn’t have any choice but to come up with alternatives. The resort utilizes the sun and the wind, both sources of renewable and ecologically friendly energy. Their set up consists of a hybrid electrical system utilizing a wind turbine, solar panels, and a diesel generator fueled by recycled vegetable oil that has been collected from restaurants. Mercey Hot Springs goal is to eventually sustain themselves solely with wind and sun power and to be independent of burning of any fossil fuels. I say, Right On!
The newly updated pool area.
Besides being a hot springs enthusiast, I too dream of living off the grid someday. So this seemed like a perfect opportunity to get some soaks in and check out the place to see what they do. I finally took my maiden voyage to Mercey last weekend. I’ll admit it, I was a little skeptical about having to pay for a hot spring having been spoiled by the freebies of the Eastern Sierra and the deserts of California. All skepticism drained away when I arrived and I saw how truly charming and historically significant this place is. It was perfect - a pure blend of eclectic and rustic, set with an isolated backdrop of golden hills and old historic buildings. A place where time stands still, as if you stepped back onto a ranch of Old California. All I could think was, why the heck have I never been here before - renewable energy or not? This is an old fashioned resort resurrecting it’s proud heritage with it’s original cabins and antique soaking tubs from back in the day. It is low on frills and that’s the way I like it - no phones, no televisions, no general store or restaurant. Just sun, wind, springs, and a slice of history pie.
Original cabins from the 1930's.
Mercey Hot Springs has a lot to offer it’s guests, so much more than I had previously imagined. There really is something for everyone here. We were pleasantly surprised by their campground, being that the Little Panoche Valley is such a dry and desolate place in the summer. They have only five tent sites (less is more, in my book), each one shaded under large tamarisk trees and relatively private. The campground was very reminiscent of desert camping, something I associate hot springs with and enjoy doing - this only added to it’s charm. They also have a separate (key word) and spacious RV area with limited hook-ups for those who travel RV style. By far the cutest accommodations are the little original cabins, some of which were built around 1900 and a couple of them built in the 1930’s. They looked very clean and comfortable and each had it’s own deck. One cabin has a little kitchen, one has a fireplace, and they all have wall heaters for winter. I definitely want to stay in one of those next time, just for the fun and novelty.
The outdoor tubs.
You have three different options for soaking in the slightly sulfurous and silky mineral waters. The spring waters here are naturally 112+ degrees and feed a variety of soaking opportunities. There are currently two (eventually to be five) completely private indoor tubs in the bath house, which also is an original building. The outdoor tubs consist of seven antique cast iron baths arranged in a circle on a large secluded deck. Each of these tubs has it’s own hot and cold taps and seats one person. (After sitting in so many hot springs with various characters in the past, having a tub to yourself makes me feel like I’ve won the lottery). Both of these areas are clothing optional, so if going natural is your thing, they are the only places you can do so in the resort. On the grounds you’ll also find a well maintained swimming pool fed by the springs. It was a wonderful 90 degrees when we were there, cooler than the hot tubs but still warm. The swimming pool area has indoor and outdoor showers and it also has the fanciest bathrooms I have ever seen for campers (see Flickr).
Dual soaking tubs.
What to expect: Renovations! The whole resort is slowly and carefully being built back up by the owners. You’ll see signs of construction as you wander the grounds and works half in progress. There are plans to fix up the old hotel with large comfortable rooms that have their own outdoor hot tub and private bathrooms. But, don’t be fooled into thinking this is going to become the next Calistoga, with feathery massages and coco flavored salt scrubs. Not Mercey, they are keeping the charm, rusticity, and affordability of days gone by flowing throughout the resort. Don’t let the renovations scare you off, it doesn’t feel like an obtrusive construction zone. Instead, it feels like you have stepped back in time and are witnessing a rebirth of fading Old California, all while sitting in silky springs under a night sky of stars.
Before you go: Bring everything you need to be self sustainable. The nearest town for decent supplies is Los Banos and that’s a seventy mile round trip adventure. The closest place to grab a sandwich or swill a beer is at the Panoche Inn, about 8 miles from the resort. There is Wi-Fi, so bring your laptop if you want to be connected. Birders and stargazers, don’t forget your toys, the springs support a variety of birds (long eared owls as a winter resident!) and since there is no light pollution the night sky is amazing.
Accommodation Fees:
Camping - $25/person.
Cabins - $70 to $105. Depending upon cabin and time of the week.
* price includes use of the outdoor tubs and swimming pool.
* $5 extra for use of private indoor tubs for overnight guests.
Day Use Fees:
$15/person for use of outdoor tubs and swimming pool - 4 hours.
$20/person more than four hours until 8pm.
$25/person after 8 pm.
Private Baths: $10 hour per person per hour
MERCEY HOT SPRINGS
62964 Little Panoche Rd.
Firebaugh, CA 93622
Telephone: 209-826-3388
Email: info@merceyhotsprings.com
Map and Directions
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